In the spirit of shedding more light on how wool fabrics come to be, we have begun a series of articles on the different stages that come into play when crafting luxury suit fabrics. Following the previous instalment in which we discussed the mastery of top-making, this piece focuses on the spinning process, its history and technical aspects. By putting the spotlight on this level of expertise, we hope to help answer the neverending question : what fabric is used for suits? 

What is the spinning process in wool production?

In the process of crafting Dormeuil’s wool fabrics, spinning comes greatly into play. Actually, it is a key step in manufacturing the best wool fabric for suits. It falls under the worsted spinning process which tends to produce finer fabrics than woollen spinning. 

The worsted  wool spinning process involves several stages which are instrumental in producing consistent quality. This method ensures both resistant and lustrous yarns and is absolutely indispensable to reach the fabric standards required by Dormeuil. 

Organising and cleaning

Once the sheep are sheared to extract their wool without causing harm to the animal, the masses of fibre are sorted according to quality, colour (the lighter the better for dyeing) and length. This process results in homogenous batches that each produce a set level of quality. These are  thoroughly washed to remove any impurities, this includes dirt but also natural oils present in the wool. 

Improving alignment 

Once they are clean, the wool fibres go through a carding machine that brushes them into alignment. This step makes sure the fibres are smooth enough for the spinning process to begin. The result of carding is called a “sliver” or “fleece”, it is in this form that wool fibres go through the spinning process. 

Spinning 

Evidently, many steps are required before the actual spinning process may begin. The fibres are fed into a spinning machine which draws out and twists them into yarn. This part may be used to heighten natural strength, like it is the case in Dormeuil’s latest wool fabric collections. Spinning consolidates the wool fibres into a thread while adding different qualities according to the specific requirements of the final fabric. The spun yarn is then ready to be dyed and woven into cloth. 

How does spinning contribute to higher quality fabrics ? 

The spinning process plays a crucial role in the production of high-quality wool fabrics. First, spinning creates alignment in fibres resulting in a smoother final cloth. What does this mean? During the spinning process, fibres get pushed in the same direction which results in a continuous yarn, eliminating any rough parts or friction. This step ensures higher uniformity and consistency in the fabric's appearance and texture. Typically, Dormeuil’s merino wool fabrics will have a more refined hand and look, in part due to the spinning process. 

Twisting creates strength and durability. The act of consistently intertwining wool fibres during spinning imparts strength and cohesion to the yarn. This key factor gives the final fabric a longer life as it will be more resistant to wear and tear. Longevity is a crucial indicator of quality in Dormeuil’s wool fabric selection for suits. 

Spinning also provides evenness in the final yarn. This is both about tension and thickness. Without a sense of uniformity, it is nearly impossible to create a  fabric with a balanced structure and appearance. Evenness also means the cloth’s behaviour when cut and sewn will remain the same. It helps maintain shape and allows for precise tailoring during the construction of a suit.

Comfort is in luxury suit fabrics. Well-spun yarn contributes to how comfortable and soft a cloth feels. Aligning fibres removes friction and coarseness, eliminating that unpleasant itchy feeling  often associated with raw wool. Spinning helps the fabric feel smooth and lustrous against the skin. 

Finally, the spinning process can heighten the fabric's ability to retain treatments such as dyes, prints, and textures. Properly spun yarn allows for better absorption and adherence of finishes, resulting in more vibrant colours, intricate designs and technical assets. 

As you may see, spinning  is essential to the overall quality, appearance, and durability to make sure wool becomes the best fabric type for suits. Any suit made from a wool cloth will surely be woven from well-spun yarn.

What are the different factors in wool spinning? 

Spinning fibres in a wool yarn can be assessed and graded according to various factors. The following aspects contribute greatly to the quality and characteristics of the yarn: 

• Fibre length plays a role in performance. The longer the stronger and smoother the yarn for more efficient spinning and the higher the quality.
• Fibre fineness determines the softness and comfort of the resulting yarn. 
• Yarn strength which is assessed to determine its durability and resistance to breakage. A well-spun yarn should have sufficient strength to withstand tension and stress without snapping or pilling easily.
• Yarn evenness, which we covered previously in this article. 
• Twist which can be summarised as the level of twist applied to the yarn during spinning according to the required characteristics of the cloth. Insufficient tension may signify weak yarn, while excessive twist can make the fabric too stiff.
• Smoothness which is basically how the surface feels and looks. We want to avoid the presence of bumps, or protruding fibres.
  
  

These evaluations are typically conducted by experienced textile professionals who have a keen eye for assessing yarn quality. Dormeuil’s wool fabric collections rely on invaluable know-how, under which fall spinning and its technical evaluation, from visual inspection to microscopic analysis. To summarise, the grade of wool fibre selected for the spinning process will depend on the desired final cloth. The best wool fabric types for suits definitely include spun yarn.

The British grades of wool

Dormeuil works mainly with the British wool system which categorises fibres  into different grades. These grades are determined by various factors such as the breed of sheep, the quality of the wool, and the desired quality of the end product. We briefly explain these below in relation to the spinning process. 

Superfine

This grade represents the highest quality and finest wool fibres that can be produced. Specific sheep breeds known for exceptionally fine fibres provide this level of quality. For example, Merino sheep are known to produce wool that meet these requirements. The superfine grade is perfect for any luxury suit fabrics made from wool thanks to its softness, resistance and excellent draping qualities.

Fine

These are high-quality fibres that present a slightly coarser texture than superfine wool but still possess desirable characteristics. Several British sheep breeds fall under this grade. Bluefaced Leicester and Wensleydale sheep are known for their quality fleeces. Fine level wool fabrics can also be cut into suits. They can also be used for quality knitted garments and blankets.

Medium

Medium-grade wool is generally used for garments as well as indoor textiles like upholstery. Yarns from this more diverse category offer moderate fineness and strength. Adequate British sheep breeds like the Clun Forest and Shetland produce this level of yarn.

Coarse

Much like its name evokes, this grade encompasses thicker and less refined fibres. Sheeps breeds that produce this type of wool may be the Scottish Blackface and the Welsh Mountain. Coarse wool can be used for outerwear, durable  work garments and rougher carpets.

This description is a general one and each wool fabric manufacturer or organisation may have a slightly different grading system for British wool spinning. Also, more specific classifications and standards for wool may exist according to the final product’s requirements.

As a general rule of thumb: the grade of wool chosen for spinning depends on the intended use and desired characteristics for the final cloth. When it comes to suits, Dormeuil’s different fabric collections woven from wool address specific standards for comfort, wear and other technical features.